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October 15, 2010

naught

Hi people-isn't this just the best way of addressing someone after a week (?), two weeks (?), three weeks (?) of not blogging substantial content. I confess that I have been posting videos as filler posts, but I'm starting to rethink fashion and veering towards art and stuff that I'm getting much more passionate about, like LGBT issues and feminism (and trying to save humanity-or just teenagers my age.) It's been a long time since I did any reviews, and there are a few drafts waiting to be edited but I haven't found the energy or motivation to deal with the millions of cringes I will be having when reading posts done under narcotics. Also, I mean "Hi there, I haven't see you for a few months now, and so let's start by bombarding you with a few text heavy reviews" is almost the blogging equivalent of a bad pick-up line. Awkward much? So let's start with, "Hi there, I haven't see you for a few months now. You miss me? You wanna see my inspiration compilation, how 'bout a yes?"

1) Babes in Toyland  2) Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain 3) Winona Ryder 4) Kurt Cobain 5) Chloe Sevigny 6) Annie Hall and Woody Allen

March 25, 2010

David James and Prada

David James is not exactly the name you would first associate with Prada campaigns. But the creative director of AnOther and AnOtherMan is the brains behind almost every Prada campaign since 1997, the art direction force behind one of the most visually unforgettable ads of all time. His works, spanning from 1998 to 2010 can be viewed at Out of Print!, an online exhibition that is up until May.

Prada SS 97

Photographer: Glen Luchford  Stylist: Alex White

"All of the ideas were inspired by film and the production was nothing short of epic! Glen preferred shooting at either dawn or just before dusk, which meant that we could only do one to two shots a day! There's no digital manipulation in these images. Everything you see was done in-camera."

Prada FW 97

Photographer: Glen Luchford  Stylist: Alex White

"The fall/winter campaign continues with the same approach from the previous season in that we used the same model but we developed the narrative, mood and atmosphere. In one of the shots the model is holding a shoe, but it actually looks like a gun."

Prada SS 98

Photographer: Glen Luchford  Stylist: Alex White

"It was 1998 and we were thinking about what the next century might look like."

Prada Menswear SS 99

Photographer: Norbert Schoerner  Stylist: David Bradshaw

"The portacabins are very modern but impersonal, like a prison or office. The character we created was very nervous and and anxious and we wanted an environment that would emphasize his state of mind."

Prada SS 2000

Photographer: Robert Wyatt  Stylist: Lucy Ewing

"We came up with the idea of making the campaign look like a bourgeois television drama but it ended up looking like a stage play."

Prada SS 01

Photographer: Cedric Buchet  Stylist: Alister Mackie

This still remains my favourite ad campaign of all time. I remember seeing this campaign some time back when I was flipping through my aunt's old fashion magazine, and was struck by the seemingly awkwardness of the models and the whole image.

"The shots weren't captured at random, they were very carefully set up. We wanted them to appear spontaneous and arbitrary, but the models and the props were actually painstakingly arranged in a very static way. That's why it looks like a frozen world. The compositions took a long time to perfect. It took us four weeks to shoot!"

Prada FW 02

Photographer: Steven Meisel  Stylist: Lori Goldstein

"The pictures reference female icons from the history of fashion, film, art and literature."

Prada SS 04

Photographer: Steven Meisel  Stylist: David Bradshaw

"The idea of the 'painted' campaign was inspired by the prints and the tie-dyeing used in the collection. When you look at the images closely, you can see that there are brush marks."

Prada SS 05

Photographer: Steven Meisel  Stylist: David Bradshaw

"I found a book on exotic birds that became the inspiration for the campaign."

Prada FW 07

Photographer: Steven Meisel  Stylist: Prada in-house

"We started off shooting the groups in camera, to work out the compositions, and then we re-shot each model separately and pieced the shot back together."

Prada SS 09

Photographer: Steven Meisel  Stylist: Prada in-house

"The reference for this campaign was Greek and Roman sculptural reliefs, the kind you find on pediments on Roman architecture.While we were shooting, Steven asked the models to push and shove each other as they moved across the set."

"We posed the boys as if they were looking at the sculptural forms we had created in the other campaign." This was no doubt my favourite menswear campaign.

February 19, 2010

there he goes, rambling on and on and on. all he wants to do is to just talk.

Recently there's been this thing about the "Fashion being Shallow" debate. Thought that I would like to state my point on this. And this is kinda just writing what I'm feeling right now and comes directly from my brain, so it may sound kind of rambly and incoherent.

I read somewhere, "apparently on a free Singapore fashion newspaper", that its publication is a guide to looking good. Is fashion just about looking good, really, seriously? If so, then I wouldn't call it fashion, but more like impressing others. Is fashion all about putting on a short dress, wearing the sluttiest heels, just because you think that men would be interested in it and women would think that you look good? I mean if so, then I think that's why many of our common folks see fashion as shallow and superficial. They just don't realise that fashion is more than putting on a beautiful facade, just for the sake of impressing and pleasing others. Their perception of fashion is just limited to materialistic women, gay men, and short mini-dresses that are priced extravagantly. And that's why many of our common folks just don't take fashion seriously. "Fashion is just a game for the rich. There are more important stuff like saving the cat on the tree or watching Jersey Shore or cleaning your nails." Bleh.

I remembered showing one of my friends the Comme des Garcons Fall '09 collection. Comme des Garcons is definitely not your regular conventional beauty of short, sexy clubbing bandage dresses. She thought it looked really weird and gave me the "just-who-in-the-world-would-wear-this" look. Well, to others, collections of Comme or Yohji or Rodarte may not be their regular perception of beauty but to me (yes, I admit I did not really like both at first when I "got" into fashion, but that was a thing of the past), they are just what I want to wear when I have the money. I shall not go on about how smart the Comme Fall 09 collection but that was the first collection that literally got me thinking.

Fashion to me, is all about expressing your inner true self to the world. For the past few years, I was wearing what people thought looked good, following (stupid, crappy) trends and it sorta changed in the past year or so. I just hated the feeling of being constricted to the man-on-the-street's perception of beauty, especially in Singapore, that if you wear just your Docs out, people will stare at you like you have a growth on your feet or something. (Thankfully, I learnt from Tavi that if someone stares at you, I should just stare back at them and make funny noises like snorting. HAHA.) It's like the past year or so, I kinda understood what I wanted to do and have been really crazy, doing stuff I actually enjoy like playing dress up and just styling crazy outfits (which may be weird to the common folks but to me it is kinda awesome), planning to do weird stuff (like dyeing my hair greyish blue. Hello, school rules, you suck.), and they kinda made me happy. Sometimes I wish I was born a Japanese or maybe lived in London or stuff like that, where people are much more liberal, but that would just mean that I would be actually succumbing to the pressure of the common folks to be like the common folks. I love unconventional beauty, but I do sometimes love conventional beauty (but more so on the former.) But the thing I enjoy the most, is to be able to feel what others like Tavi or Susie Lau are expressing through their clothes and not being afraid what others think of them, and I hope I would be able to do that and people may be able to appreciate what I wear. Wouldn't life be more interesting and fun if you go down the street and see people with their own take on fashion and personal style?

The same argument goes with blogging. I just don't feel like blogging stuff that people might find interesting, I blog what I'm feeling, I blog what I like and want others to like. Finding your own identity and just being who you are without pressure from others, that's was kinda like the starting point of this blog which I felt I couldn't express it in reality sometimes. The virtual world is my escape.

Fashion can make someone look good but if the main purpose of you wearing clothes is to just to impress others, I would say that you're just another hipster kid who's just trying to fit in. I'm not saying that people should wear Comme or Yohji but is that what you're feeling, then wear it. You can too wear H&M and Target and would be able to express yourself through the clothes.

Fashion is too, not shallow/dumb/consumerist/superficial. If you think that way, then shouldn't music and art be considered shallow/dumb/idiotic, since fashion is too expressing yourself except through clothes. To me, it's the best way to let my inner self out because I'm not the one who can paint a picture at whim nor very good with lyrics and words. Fashion is fun/exciting/awesome/thought-provoking and people outside this billion dollar bubble just do not get it. Seeing this industry as a way of ripping off twelve year old kids and their parents and those who support it as a materialistic bunch of misfits: it is kinda funny to see how the haters are too as shallow as they make the fashion industry to be,  just because they have never truly step into the world they deem as shallow.

Where others might think it's ugly and weird, I might love it. People may say that I'm probably having a rebellious streak in me, but I think I'm just who I am.

February 19, 2010

when nick knight speaks, you listen.

"Fashion is an extension of dressing. It’s a very important social factor. It amuses me that fashion and fashion photography are treated so poorly intellectually. Cultural intellectuals tend to feel they’re not qualified to discuss fashion photography, or that it’s a waste of time. I even get correspondence across the forums at SHOWstudio from people who think fashion is evil. There’s a lack of understanding, a moral dismissal, and an anger that fashion, and by extension fashion photography, is a wasteful, criminal thing. I quite like that agitation and aggression, because I don’t believe it. In a society where your first encounter with people tends to be visual, you’re sort of saying “This is who I am.” I can’t imagine a society that doesn’t adorn and decorate itself and doesn’t use its outer appearance in some way as a social communication.”

-Nick Knight, interviewed in Aperture 197

February 18, 2010

mama says that fashion is for girls. papa says that he doesn't get fashion, it's shallow.

"Are you doing a Before and After shot I'm not aware of?"

And by the way, I totally think the Comme Des Garcons Fall '09 collection is unisex, so I'm going to get myself a blanket-carpet-jacket. When I save enough money.

That's all.

January 09, 2010

A look at Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga through the years. These are what dreams are made of.

This is in no way a post about 'ooh, it's already ten years. It's time to reminisce about the past." Anyway isn't it a little too late to do it now.

1st row:

Spring Summer 2000: Dolman sleeves, sack dresses, slim pleated pants.

Fall Winter 2000: It was the 80's reinvented, but constructed without any hint of the past.

Spring Summer 2001: Pleated, ruffled, embroidered. Cut, twisted and manipulated in the most craziest way possible.

2nd row:

Fall Winter 2001: It was not just a Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga show, it was a show by a designer that was heralded as fashion's new big thing. Impeccably executed designs, amazing workmanship, it was nothing short of being the most watched show of the season.

Spring Summer 2002: Patchwork microdresses and jackets.

Fall Winter 2002: A mix of leather, oversized knitwear, and shaggy ivory coats

3rd row:

Spring Summer 2003: Surfing(Hawaiian surfer prints never looked this good), Diving, Baseball. "When it comes to absorbing and recasting influences, Ghesquiere is fashion's champion left fielder, and that's what puts him in a different league."

Fall Winter 2003: New proportions and intriguing shapes. These are what to become Nicolas's trademark: breaking the boundaries, playing fearlessly with new volumes and fabrics. And that propelled him to the top of the fashion hierarchy in no time.

Spring Summer 2004: Gasp, where's Balenciaga's signature pants? In its place were ultra-feminine silhouettes that had a futuristic edge to it, that were enough to satisfy our desire for the missing trousers.

4th row:

Fall Winter 2004: The ever-so famous (and chic) aviator jackets, and gazar balloon skirts from the archives of Cristobal Balenciaga.

Spring Summer 2005: It was a definitely more grown-up collection but still super chic and ultra-classy.

Fall Winter 2005: "What held it all together was the synthesis of vintage couture and Ghesquiere's sci-fi obsession."

5th row:

Spring Summer 2006: Frilly illy lace

Fall Winter 2006: It was more than just equestrian, it was of crazy volumes and new proportions. Exquisite couture-like show, something only Nicolas could produce such a show. Ranks as one of my favourite-st shows at Balenciaga (but then again, I have a lot of favourite-st shows at Balenciaga).

Spring Summer 2007: 'When I was young, I would have these dreams about the future, and this was what everyone wore."

6th row:

Fall Winter 2007: Jodhpurs, blazers, scarves, and ikat prints that fueled a global industry of knockoffs. Is this the biggest compliment a designer can get?

Spring Summer 2008: "This was Balenciaga in full bloom, a splashy riot of hypergorgeous hydrangeas, pansies, peonies, daffodils and anemones. Short sharp essays in couture technique" Pure genius.

Fall Winter 2008: A nightmare gone terribly good, a dream gone terribly wrong.

7th row:

Spring Summer 2009: Sci-fi couture. Ghesquiere works without references and narratives, pushing experimentation with new fabrics and cut to perfection.

Fall Winter 2009: 'When we go for something, you know, it's quite radical. So we drape kilometers and kilometers of satin.' Nicolas Ghesquiere.

Spring Summer 2010: "That kind of work can't be replicated anywhere else but in this house, and if there's an argument for high fashion versus low, this is one of the stronger defenses that exists." Sarah Mower.

January 06, 2010

Tavi, Is that really chu?

I know Tavi doesn't like people blogging about her but I would be an idiot and would probably live in guilt forever if I don't share this post. Sometimes I really do doubt whether Tavi is really 13 years old especially after reading (and rereading) one of her bestest post, because she is the only blogger so far that has made me so inspired that I can run out in my pyjamas right now and still be confident that I look good. Look here:

 

Via Style Rookie: Ramblings, oops "And that, in the end, is all I want to do. Use my resources, and just have fun with dressing. Weirdly enough, it's when people anywhere-outside, in school, online-don't understand my outfits or style that motivates me to just be stranger. Not that I think I'm Bob Dylan or some type of ENIGMATIC ARTISTE or an artist at all, but this refusal of others to try and understand why somebody dresses a certain way (for which the real reasons are, in the end, nothing complex) just makes me want to dress more obnoxiously. Be more difficult to understand, more over their heads.

Or, I'm a malicious and spiteful teenager!

But really, I love it when I love my outfit and I walk from class to class and feel like I'm practically floating. My head is bobbing around like Bjork's when she walked for Jean Paul Gaultier and I just feel very confident in myself, not because I think other people will like my outfit but just because I do. And maybe even because I know other people won't like it because it isolates me and I can be in my own world for a bit. And it makes me feel good, and being creative makes me feel good.

And I think that is all I really want to do, and have ever wanted to do. The idea of being a mad eccentric who is constantly slipping into different skins is so appealing to me. I started this blog because I wanted to explore my style. Now I have more of an idea of what it is and will just continue to try and apply it every day."

 

Inspired? You better be, because these are the words of the ever-wise Tavi. Go Tavi!

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