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January 25, 2011

jil sander fall winter 2011

(So I guess this is my first official menswear post.)

I love Raf Simons-I'm gonna start my first post with utter designer infatuation. And while I have always appreciated clothes that have a concept behind them, there really isn't any intellectual depth to this collection. Yet Raf Simons makes up for this with an extremely well thought-out collection and a highly entertaining take on the modern dandy man.

Almost instinctively, I find myself asking, "How did he do that?" and I'm also afraid my next few sentences will be embedded with chummy love messages. This collection is funny in a way that it is somehow not the usual formula for success. Raf has employed the same use of neon colours in his previous menswear and womenswear collections and it is also a wide known fact that the fashion crowd is a very fickle bunch. In theory, this collection would never ever be lauded for its creativity. But it seems it is quite the complete opposite. There's something both familiar and distant here-the colours have gone up a few notches, the neon water-colour flowers have been stripped off, the same impeccable tailoring but with a whole different structure and ingenuity.

The best pieces are simple and at first glance, seem nothing at all- a boxy suit with a t-shirt underneath. Yet they have somehow worn into my consciousness and I keep coming back to look at them, and wondering why I keep coming back.

I am intrigued by the use of fabrics (would materials be a more appropriate term?) here. Suits are made out of what seems to resemble felt, giving it a loose, unstructured fit round the body. Knits and jackets are done up in some sort of foamy neoprene, and it will warrant my visit to the showroom. The material nerd in me wants to snuggle up to a pile of orange and salmon pink knits and because I'm a total creep in real life, there's a high chance I might start caressing them against my face and pee around the pile to mark my territory. The suits are cut up to spectacular proportions, with much emphasis placed on the shoulders. The vibrancy of colours only serves to further highlight the simplicity of Raf's clothes. While I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to afford any of these, I like the idea of layering knitwear in different shades, and might toy around with the idea of incorporating primary colours into my wardrobe. But other than that, I am going to continue my fantasies about having that orange foamy quilted knitwear (with that bubblegum pink shirt underneath because we all know how perfect they look together) and that salmon pink jacket (I don't get how it's so voluminously perfect.)

I guess at the end of this we are left asking ourselves how Raf never fails to create and invent, even if it's within a field that hardly ventures further than a pin-striped three piece suit. But the answer doesn't really matter-the mystery surrounding it only leaves us wanting more. Raf really is the new king.

October 18, 2010

retina

Jil Sander has always been a 'need' brand-the perfect crisp white shirt, the immaculately tailored coat, and a razor-sharp jacket, and perhaps it will always remain one. Yet most of the time, Raf Simons tries to break away from this deeply ingrained stereotype and move towards a more conceptual Jil Sander. This decision has its merits but hasn't always paid off in the recent years. I find that most of the time the concept gets in the way with the clothes, it may be 'edgy' but it isn't desirable. Which therefore explains why his past collections have somewhat only received a lukewarm response from the fashion crowd. Thankfully for Raf Simons, he sheds most of the concept which have hindered his rise to the top and managed to evolve this collection into a 'want', or rather more appropriately, a 'GOD DAMN IT, I WANT!". I'm unabashed to say that this was my favourite collection in the history of a catastrophic Spring 2011 fashion week.

It doesn't come as a surprise that much of the excitement of the show could not be contained in Milan itself, manifesting itself into 140-character Twitter love declarations and unashamed fan-girling on twitpic. Perhaps one of the main driving forces for Raf's success in Milan was the fact that minimalism, a Jil Sander attribute has become a mainstay in fashion week (at least for now) and it's only right to take a few calculated risks and up the stakes of the game that everyone wants to be a part in. And Raf certainly did that, without resurrecting dead cliches of frumpy boring daywear or the same old Jil Sander classics.

The palette was extraordinary, a daring pick of highly saturated colours-shocking pink, day-glo orange, and bold hues of blue, green, yellow. It was a well-executed balancing act of a strong colour palette restricted in a boxed-in simplicity of form and a couture code of construction (not the embroideries but rather the shapes.) The volume and silhouettes of the clothes were well-controlled, which thankfully didn't make the models look twenty thousand feet wide. Rather than adding fuss, the floor-sweeping skirts seemed to accentuate lines and curves, especially exemplified in the undulating shapes around the hips. I wouldn't want to wait till next Spring to see these skirts billowing down the streets, my patience might have died by then, and I might just rape the Jil Sander atelier (now can someone get these in my wardrobe before my actions get uncontrollable). The sack shape will always bring to mind a haute couture sensibility, yet this seemed easy and very wearable, not forgetting desirable. The parkas and the windbreakers also brought the clothes down to utilitarian pret-a-porter, which is always a good thing since couture sometimes leaves a bad after-taste in your mouth. At least for me.

The strongest pieces in the show, or in this case defined as my favourites, were that of the neon flowers print. It brought to mind old, tacky and ultimately chinese-y bedsheets from my grandparents era, except these were turned up a few notches along the gradient scale. The neon water/ink-spill on a t-shirt-skirt combination was pretty rad too. Maybe the neon flowers exploded and released its otherworldly dyes? Also, the stripes in this collection were pretty perfect, which culminated in the most wonderful barely-there top and a pretty rad bubble-gum pink ankle-length skirt (look at how it reflects the light).

It was a bold move by the Belgian designer-bold silhouettes and bold colours that couldn't be any more perfect. Unfortunately, I now find myself confused about my own gender identity because I would love to try on one of those skirts. (Let's hope that I will grow longer legs and this will only be temporary.)

June 20, 2010

true colors/colours/technicolors

I wouldn't say I really hated the Jil Sander Spring 2011 menswear show. The neon colours and the op-art stripes may just be a little difficult on the eyes, and you would need to have a lot of guts and feeling like a big happy kid who has not experienced how bitchy life can get, to pull off such bold colour combinations. Lest I get stoned for crossing into unchartered territories of menswear while making such unruly comments, errr....i guess we can say, "that was some awesome garden and there was some nice tailoring going on over there." But it wasn't a complete hate affair for me, there were some colour combinations that I liked and a few pieces that are worth mentioning here.

The pale peach and the stroke of bright purple is definitely a 'I DIE' combination, also the men's equivalent of this.

While I hated how this orange was shown on its own on a pair of pants in the first look, it was quite a different issue when it appeared again in the form of a suit.

These techno, slightly 3D, photographic floral illustrations are quite something. I need to see it up-close.

The tailoring, as previously mentioned, was extraordinary. Raf Simons can never ever go wrong in that department.

This collection was Raf Simons way of breaking away from the Jil Sander aethestic of a clean crisp white shirt. Perhaps it will be the same too for the womenswear collection, and somehow I'm looking forward to it.

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