Urgh, I don't know what happen to New York, but I'm not liking what I'm seeing so far. It looks like it's only appropriate to rethink what I've written in my earlier review, "Prints, how ground-breaking for summer?!" Considering what we have seen for the last few shows, any hint of colour and print would be able to make me go dizzy in joy. Somehow, somewhere, last season's minimalist looks have been translated into white, white, white and Calvin Klein-ish minimalist white for spring, which makes it utterly dull and boring. Isn't spring all about colours and prints and fun and optimistic fun? As Cathy Horyn aptly describes the severity of this situation, "if the white trend continues for spring, Barneys could end up looking like a bridal salon, or a uniform supply store for nurses."
Given my disdain for the colour, I can't quite fathom how I am actually attracted to the whites at Preen. Whilst Justin Thornton and The Bregazzi cite Egypt and the Arab countries as their main inspiration (probably not so much of the prints obviously but rather the play of light), what manifested in this collection was instead the clever balance between the sheer and luxurious. The color palette was incredibly therapeutic too, probably because it wasn't the same sheer white that designers have been ramming down our throats since the start of fashion week. It was more of a mix between white and grey and given a pastel-y treatment. And this, I am very very thankful of.
The sheer dresses have become a staple for the runway this season but I thought those from Preen were able to stand out from all the ghostly, "oops, this is a little too transparent, maybe we need a little of Lindsay Lohan heart pasties" frocks. The duo was able to find the right balance of transparency, which then translated to luxurious, silky, ethereal dresses, that was anything but vulgar. The details too were quite amazing, from the pleats and diamond, fishnet braiding to the more elaborate Grecian tile prints. This is again a time when I wish style.com had the detail shots (I know I've said this too many times.)
A pity style.com runway photos were a photography disaster. As such, I recommend everyone who hasn't yet been converted to head over to The Sartorialist.
I wasn't feeling the prints as much I wished I had, neither did the hair do justice to the clothes (the models looked like made-in-china barbie dolls replicas). But overall, the off-white tones and the suits (the belted suit below was my favourite) managed to seal the deal for me.
