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January 25, 2011

jil sander fall winter 2011

(So I guess this is my first official menswear post.)

I love Raf Simons-I'm gonna start my first post with utter designer infatuation. And while I have always appreciated clothes that have a concept behind them, there really isn't any intellectual depth to this collection. Yet Raf Simons makes up for this with an extremely well thought-out collection and a highly entertaining take on the modern dandy man.

Almost instinctively, I find myself asking, "How did he do that?" and I'm also afraid my next few sentences will be embedded with chummy love messages. This collection is funny in a way that it is somehow not the usual formula for success. Raf has employed the same use of neon colours in his previous menswear and womenswear collections and it is also a wide known fact that the fashion crowd is a very fickle bunch. In theory, this collection would never ever be lauded for its creativity. But it seems it is quite the complete opposite. There's something both familiar and distant here-the colours have gone up a few notches, the neon water-colour flowers have been stripped off, the same impeccable tailoring but with a whole different structure and ingenuity.

The best pieces are simple and at first glance, seem nothing at all- a boxy suit with a t-shirt underneath. Yet they have somehow worn into my consciousness and I keep coming back to look at them, and wondering why I keep coming back.

I am intrigued by the use of fabrics (would materials be a more appropriate term?) here. Suits are made out of what seems to resemble felt, giving it a loose, unstructured fit round the body. Knits and jackets are done up in some sort of foamy neoprene, and it will warrant my visit to the showroom. The material nerd in me wants to snuggle up to a pile of orange and salmon pink knits and because I'm a total creep in real life, there's a high chance I might start caressing them against my face and pee around the pile to mark my territory. The suits are cut up to spectacular proportions, with much emphasis placed on the shoulders. The vibrancy of colours only serves to further highlight the simplicity of Raf's clothes. While I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to afford any of these, I like the idea of layering knitwear in different shades, and might toy around with the idea of incorporating primary colours into my wardrobe. But other than that, I am going to continue my fantasies about having that orange foamy quilted knitwear (with that bubblegum pink shirt underneath because we all know how perfect they look together) and that salmon pink jacket (I don't get how it's so voluminously perfect.)

I guess at the end of this we are left asking ourselves how Raf never fails to create and invent, even if it's within a field that hardly ventures further than a pin-striped three piece suit. But the answer doesn't really matter-the mystery surrounding it only leaves us wanting more. Raf really is the new king.

June 20, 2010

true colors/colours/technicolors

I wouldn't say I really hated the Jil Sander Spring 2011 menswear show. The neon colours and the op-art stripes may just be a little difficult on the eyes, and you would need to have a lot of guts and feeling like a big happy kid who has not experienced how bitchy life can get, to pull off such bold colour combinations. Lest I get stoned for crossing into unchartered territories of menswear while making such unruly comments, errr....i guess we can say, "that was some awesome garden and there was some nice tailoring going on over there." But it wasn't a complete hate affair for me, there were some colour combinations that I liked and a few pieces that are worth mentioning here.

The pale peach and the stroke of bright purple is definitely a 'I DIE' combination, also the men's equivalent of this.

While I hated how this orange was shown on its own on a pair of pants in the first look, it was quite a different issue when it appeared again in the form of a suit.

These techno, slightly 3D, photographic floral illustrations are quite something. I need to see it up-close.

The tailoring, as previously mentioned, was extraordinary. Raf Simons can never ever go wrong in that department.

This collection was Raf Simons way of breaking away from the Jil Sander aethestic of a clean crisp white shirt. Perhaps it will be the same too for the womenswear collection, and somehow I'm looking forward to it.

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